Eastern Andalusia includes the magnificent city of Córdoba surrounded by countryside ín the fertile valley of the Rio Guadalquivir. To the east of here is fabled Granada, in a province that spans the Sierra Nevada mountains and the beautifully rugged Alpujarras. This is where you'll find some of the prettiest, most ancient villages; it has become one of the foremost destinations for Andalusia's increasingly popular rural tourism. The coastline of Eastern Andalusia is similarly stunning, with towering cliffs, coves, and unspoiled seaside resorts.

Spring and autumn are the best seasons to visit. Summer can be stifling, especially in Córdoba; in winter, temperatures can drop to the 30s, and the wind off the Guadalquivir in Córdoba can be as stiff as any in New England. Note that most monuments close for lunch, anywhere between 1:30 and 4, and most museums are closed on Monday.

Granada yields the Alhambra, the gardens of the Generalife, the tomb of Ferdinand and Isabella, and the streets of the ancient Albaicín. Out- side the city rise the craggy peaks of the Sierra Nevada; the picturesque and crafts-rich Alpujarra región; the cave communities of Guadix and Purullena; and the fantasy hotel La Bobadilla, near Loja.

430 km (265 mi) south of Madrid, 261 km (162 mi) east of Córdoba.

Granada rises majestically from a plain onto three hills, dwarfed -on a clear day- by the mighty snowcapped peaks of the Sierra Nevada. Atop one of these hills perches the pink-gold Alhambra palace. The stunning view from its mount takes in the sprawling medieval Moorish quarter, the caves of the Sacromonte, and, in the distance, the fertile vega, rich in orchards, tobacco fields, and poplar groves. Split by internal squabbles, Granada's Moorish Nasrid dynasty gave Ferdinand of Aragón an opportunity in 1491; spurred by Isabella's religious fanaticism, he laid siege to the city for seven months, and on January 2, 1492, Boabdil, the "Rey Chico" (Boy King), was forced to surrender the keys of the city to the Catholic Monarchs. As Boabdil fled the Alhambra by the Puerta de los Siete Suelos (Gate of the Seven Floors), he asked that the gate be sealed forever.

Save a full day for the Alhambra and the neighboring sites on the Alhambra hill: the Alcazaba, Generalife, Alhambra Museum, Casa- Museo de Manuel de Falla , and Carmen de los Mártires . The following w alk deserves a day of its own and covers the other major spots in Granada's nucleus.

As with all things Granadan, the Moorish culinary in fluence is stronger here than anywhere else in Andalusia. The use of almonds and the combinations of sweet and salt are strongly redolent of North African cuisine, as are the bitter oranges and the widespread use of Granada's emblematic fig. Sugar mills were one of the chief sources of Granada's wealth until well into the 19th century, and as a result pastries made of syrups, almonds, and flour became specialties, particularly in convents all over the province. Habas con jamón de Trevétez (broad beans with ham from the Alpujarras village of Trevélez) is Granada's most famous regional dish, with tortilla de Sacromonte (an omelet made of calf's brains, sweetbreads, diced ham, potatoes, and peas) just behind. Sopa sevillana (tasty fish and seafood soup), surprisingly named for Granada's most direct rival city, is another staple, and choto albaicinero (braised kid with garlic, also known as choto a/'///o) is also a specialty. Moorish dishes such as bstella (from the Moorish bastilla, a salty-sweet puff pastry with pigeon or other meal, pine nuts, and almonds) and spicy crema de almendras almond cream soup) are not uncommon on Granada menus.

Thanks to outdoor clubs and an interest in preserving the wilderness, Andalusia has many parks for recreation and camping. The village of Cazorla, in the province of Jaén, leads to the pine-clad slopes of the Cazorla Nature Park. South of Granada, the Sierra Nevada and the Alpujarras have some of the most impressive vistas in all of Spain, plus ter rific skiing in winter and many outdoor sports ¡n summer.

Andalusia's Sierra Nevada is the site of the 1996 World Alpine Ski Cham pionships; at the Pradollano and Borreguiles stations there's good skiing from December through May. Both stations have a special snowboarding circuit, floodlit night slopes, a children's ski school, and aprés-ski sun and swim ming in the Mediterranean less than an hour (33 km/20 mi) away.

Granada observes la Toma (the Capture), the 1492 surrender to the Catholic Monarchs, on January 2. On January 5, the eve of the Día de los Reyes Magos (Feast of the Three Magic Kings), every city and village holds processions of the three Wise Men. On February 1, Granada organizes a romería (pilgrimage) to the Monastery of San Cecilio, on Sacromonte. Both Granada and Córdoba party hard during Carnaval, on the days leading up to Ash Wednesday; and both celébrate Semana Santa (Holy Week) with dramatic religious processions. The shrine of the Virgen de la Cabeza, near Andú¡ar in the province of jaén, is the scene of one of Spain's biggest romerías on the last weekend in April. May brings to Córdoba Las Cruces de Mayo (May Days of the Cross), the Fiesta de los Patios (Patio Festival), and the Feria de Nuestra Señora de la Salud (Feast of Our Lady of Health). In Granada Dia de la Cruz (Day of the Cross) is observed he first Sunday in May, San Isidro on May 15, and Mariana Pineda (a 19th-century political heroine) on May 26. In mid-June, Granada celebrates Corpus Christi and San Pedro (June 29); the Festival Internacional de Música y Danza (International Festival of Music and Dance), with some events in the Alhambra, begins in late June and runs into July. The International Guitar Festival brings major artists to Córdoba in early july. Córdoba celebrates Nuestra Señora de la Fuensanta and Granada honors Nuestra Señora de las Angustias (Our Lady of Distress on the last Sunday in September and holds the Romería de San Miguel (procession of St. Michael) on the closest Sunday to September 29.

Begin at the Plaza Isabel la Católica (at the junction of the Gran Via and Calle Reyes Católicos), with its statue of Columbus presenting Queen Isabella with his map of the New World. Walkdown Calle Reyes Católicos and turn left into the Corral del Carbón the tourist office here has maps and brochures. Cross back over Calle Reyes Católicos; directly ahead is the Alcaicería, once the Arabs' silk market and now a maze of alleys packed with souvenir shops and restaurants. Turn left from the Alcaicería to reach the relaxed Plaza Bib-Rambla, with its flowers stalls and colorful Gran Café Bib-Rambla, the latter a perfect place for an ice cream. From the northeast corner of the square, Calle Oficios takes you to the Palacio Madraza, the old Arab University, and the Capilla Real, next to which is the cathedral. Just outside the cathedral's west front is the 16th-century Escuela de las Niñas Nobles, with a plateresque facade. Next to the cathedral, along the Plaza de Alonzo Cano, are the impressive Curia Eclesiástica, used as an Imperial College until 1769; the Palacio del Arzobispo; and the 18th-century Iglesia del Sagrario, with Corinthian columns. Behind the cathedral is the Gran Vía de Colón, named, after Columbus, one of Granada's main thoroughfares. Cross the Gran Vía and head right, back to Plaza de Isabel la Católica. If it's after 2:30, make a short detour to the Casa de los Tiros. Make your way back to Plaza Isabel la Católica and turn right to reach the Plaza Nueva, over-looked by the 16th-century Real Cancillería (Royal Chancery), which now houses the Tribunal Superior de Justicia (High Court). Artisans have set up shops in the surrounding area. At the north end of the plaza is the adjacent Plaza Santa Ana, where you'll find the church of Santa Ana, designed by Diego de Siloé. Walk north through the Plaza Santa Ana onto Carrera del Darro and you'll reach the ll th-century Arab bath- house, El Bañuelo. Just up Carrera del Darro is the 16th-century Caso de Castril, site of Granada's Archaeological Museum. Follow the river along the Paseo del Padre Manjón -also known as the Paseo de los Tristes- to the end, to see the Palacio de los Córdoba. Head north up the Cuesta del Chapíz to the Morisco Casa del Chapíz. East of here are the caves of the Sacromonte, which require a special expedition by minibus. For now, turn west and plunge into the streets of the Albaicín. Granada's other major sights are just outside town and best reached by car or taxi: 2 km (1 mi) north of the city center, off Calle Real de Cartuja, is the 16th-century baroque Monasterio de La Cartuja. To the south are the Parque de las Ciencias, an interactive science mu seum, and Casa-Museo Federico García Lorca.

Covering a hill of its own, across the Darro ravine from the Alhambra, this ancient Moorish neighborhood is a mix of dilapidated white houses and immaculate carmenes (private villas in gardens enclosed by high walls). It was founded in 1228 by Moors who fled Baeza after Ferdinand captured the city. Full of cobble alleyways and secret corners, the Albaicín guards its old Moorish roots jealously, though its 30 mosques were converted to baroque churches long ago. A stretch of the Moors' original city wall runs beside the Cuesta de la Alhacaba. If you're walking -the best way to explore- you can enter the Albaicín from either the Cuesta de Elvira or the Plaza Nueva. Alternatively, on foot or by taxi (parking is impossible), begin in the Plaza Santa Ana and follow the Carrera del Darro, Paseo Padre Manjón, and Cuesta del Chapíz. One of the highest points in the quarter, the plaza in front of the church , of San Nicolás -called the Mirador de San Nicolás- has one of the finest views in all of Granada: on the hill opposite, the turrets and towers of the Alhambra form a dramatic silhouette against the snowy peaks of the Sierra Nevada. The sight is most magical at dawn, dusk, and on nights when the Alhambra is floodlit.

With nearly 2 million visitors a year, the Alhambra is Spain's most popular attraction. Walking to the Alhambra can be as inspiring as walking around it. If you're up to a long, scenic approach, start in the Plaza Nueva and climb the Cuesta de Gomérez -through the slopes of green elms planted by the Duke of Wellington- to reach the Puerta de las Granadas (Pomegranate Gate), a Renaissance gateway built by Charles V and topped by three pomegranates, symbols of Granada. Just past the gate, take the path branching off to the left to the Puerta de la Justicia (Gate of Justice), one of the Alhambra's entrances. Yusuf I built the gate in 1348; its two arches are carved with a key and a hand, its five fingers representing the five laws of the Koran. Unless you've already bought a ticket, continue up the hill along the Alhambra's outer walls to the parking lot and the adjacent ticket office. If you're driving, you'll approach the Alhambra from the opposite direction. There is a large parking lot. Don't be tempted to park on the surrounding streets, which may leave your car vulnerable to a break-in. Alternatively, you can park in the underground car park on Calle San Agustín, just north of the cathedral, and take a taxi or the minibus that runs from the Plaza Nueva every 15 minutes. The complex has three main parts: the Alcazaba, the Palacios Nazaríes, and the Generalife. Access to the second, the Palacios Nazaríes, is restricted to 350 people every half hour. The other two sections can be visited at will during the morning or af ternoon schedule.

The Alhambra was begun in the 1240s by Ibn el-Ahmar, or Alhamar, the first king of the Nasrids. The great citadel once comprised a com­ plex of houses, schools, baths, barracks, and gardens surrounded by de fense towers and seemingly impregnable walls. Today, only the Alcazaba and the Nasrid Royal Palace, built chiefly by Yusuf I (1334-54) and his son Mohammed V (1354-91), remain. The palace is an endless, intricate fantasy of patios, arches, and cupolas fashioned from wood, plas ter, and tile; lavishly colored and adorned with marquetry and ceramics in geometric patterns; and surmounted by delicate, frothy profusions of lacelike stucco and mocárabes (ornamental stalactites). Built of per ishable materials, it was never intended to last but to be forever replenished and replaced by succeeding generations. By the early 17th century, ruin and decay had set in, and the Alhambra was abandoned by all but tramps and stray dogs. Napoléon's troops commandeered it in 1812, but their attempts to destroy it were, happily, foiled. In 1814, the Alhambra's for
tunes rose with the arrival of the Duke of Wellington, who carne here to escape the pressures of the Peninsular War. Soon afterward, in 1829, Washington Irving arrived to live on the premises and helped revive in terest in the crumbling palace, in part through his 1832 book Tales of the Alhambra. In 1862, Granada finally launched a complete restoration program that has been carried on ever since.

Across from the main entrance is the original fortress, the Alcazaba. Its ruins are dominated by the Torre de la Vela (Watchtower), from whose summit you can see, to the north, the Albaicín; to the northeast, the Sacramonte; and to the west, the cathedral. The tower's great bell was once used, by both the Moors and the Christians, to announce the opening and closing of the irrigation system on Granada's great plain. The Renaissance Palacio de Carlos V (Palace of Charles V), with a perfectly square exterior but a circular interior courtyard, is where the sult ans' private apartments once stood. Designed by Pedro Machuca -a pupil of Michelangelo- and begun in 1526, the palace was once used for bullfights and mock tournaments. Today, its perfect acoustics draw summer symphony concerts during Granada's International Festival of Music and Dance. Part of the building houses the Museo de la Alham bra (Tues.-Sat. 9-2 53 Free), devoted to Islamic art. Upstairs is the more modest Museo de Bellas Artes (Museum of Fine Arts; Wed.-Sat. 9-6, Sun. 9-2:30, Tues. 2:30-6 S3 €1.50). You can visit the Palace of Charles V and the museums independently of the Alhambra.

A wisteria-covered walkway leads to the heart of the Alhambra, the Palacios Nazaríes (Nasrid Royal Palace), sometimes also called the Casa Real (Royal Palace). Here, delicate apartments, lazy fountains, and tran­ quil pools contrast vividly with the hulking fortifications outside, and . the interior walls are decorated with elaborately carved inscriptions from the Koran. The Royal Palace is divided into three sections. The first is the mexuar, where business, government, and palace adminis tration were headquartered. These chambers include the Oratory and the Cuarto Dorado (Golden Room); gaze at the Albaicín and Sacromonte from their windows. The serrallo is a series of state rooms where the sultans held court and entertained their ambassadors. In the heart of the serrallo is the Patio de los Arrayanes (Court of the Myrtles), with a long goldfish pool. At its northern end, in the Salón de Embajadores (Hall of the Ambassadors) -which has a magnificent cedar door- King Boabdil signed the terms of surrender and Queen Isabella received Christopher Columbus.

The final section is the harem, which in its time was entered only by the sultan, his family, and their most trusted servants, most of them eunuchs. To reach it, you'11 pass through the Sala de los Mocárabes (Hall of the Ornamental Stalactites): note the splendid, though damaged, ceiling, and the elabórate stalactite-style stonework in the arches above. The post- card-perfect Patio de los Leones (Court of the Lions) is the heart of the harem. From the fountain in the center, 12 lions, which may represent the months or signs of the zodiac, leer out at you. Four streams flow symbolically to the four corners of the earth and more literally to the surrounding state apartments.

The Sala de los Abencerrajes (Hall of the Moors), on the south side of the palace, may be the Alhambra's most beautiful gallery, with its fabulous, ornate ceiling and a star-shape cupola reflected in the pool below. Here Boabdil's father is alleged to have massacred 16 members of the Abencerrajes family -whose chief was the lover of his favorite daugh ter, Zoraya- and piled their bloodstained heads in this font. The Sala de los Reyes (Kings' Hall) lies on the patio's east side, decorated with ceiling frescoes that may have been painted by Christians in the last days of the Moors' tenure. To the north, the Sala de las Dos Hermanas (Hall of the Two Sisters) was Zoraya's abode. Its name comes from the two white-marble slabs in its floor, and its ceiling is stucco, an intricate pat- tern of honeycomb cells. Note the symmetrically placed pomegranates on the walls. The Baños Reales, the Alhambra's semi-subterranean bathhouse, is where the sultan's favorites luxuriated in baths of brightly tiled mosaic and performed their ablutions lit by star-shape pinpoints of light from the ceiling above. The baths are only open to visitors on specific days, which change throughout the year. An up-to-date timetable can be obtained from the tourist office. Over on the Cerro del Sol (Hill of the Sun) is the Generalife, ancient summer palace of the Nasrid kings. Its name comes from the Arabic gennat alarif garden of the architect and its terraces and promenades grant incomparable views of the city, stretching to the distant vega. During the summer's International Fes­tival of Music and Dance, these stately cypresses are the backdrop for evening ballets in the Generalife amphitheater. Between the Alhambra and Generalife is the 16th-century convent of San Francisco .

It is a good idea to visit the Alhambra Web site for the latest booking arrangements and prices before leaving for Spain. Be advised that there is a limited number of tickets on sale at the gate each day, so whatever the time of year, it is always prudent to reserve in advance. This may be done through any Banco Bilbao Vizcaya (BBV) for a €1 surcharge. Same-day tickets are sold at the BBV branch on Plaza Isabel la Católica 1, or you can reserve by phone, Internet, or at any BBV branch up to a year in ad­ vance. By phone or Internet, you pay by credit card, trien pick up your tickets at the Alhambra's ticket office the day of your visit. Your ticket will show the half-hour time slot for your entry to the Palacios Nazaríes; once inside, you can stay as long as you like. On busy days, you may have several hours to spare before your visit to the interior palaces; take the time to explore the Generalife, the Alcazaba, the Alhambra Museum, and the Fine Arts Museum. There might even be enough time to walk to the charming Casa-Museo de Manuel de Falla and the Carmen de los Mártires and have lunch at one of the restaurants on the Alhambra hill. For a different (and calmer) perspective, come back for a floodlit tour of the Palacios Nazaríes at night. Cuesta de Gomérez, Alhambra 902224460 within Spain for advance ticket sales (BBV), 91/3465936 from outside Spain www.alhambra-patronato.es {booking informa tion and prices), www.alhambratickets.com (tickets) "Alhambra and Generalife €7 Mar.-Oct., daily 8:30-2 (morning ticket); Mon.-Sun. 2-8 (afternoon ticket); floodlit visits Tues.-Sat. 10 PM. Nov.-Feb., daily 8:30-2 (morning ticket); daily 2-6 (afternoon ticket); floodlit vis­ its Fri. and Sat. S PM-9:30 pm. Ticket office opens 30 mins before open­ ing time and clases a half hr before closing time.

Catholic Monarchs Isabella of Castile and Ferdinand of Aragón are buried at this shrine. The couple originally planned to be buried in Toledo's San Juan de los Reyes, but Isabella changed her mind when the pair conquered Granada in 1492. When she died, in 1504, her body was first laid to rest in the Convent of San Francisco, on the Alhambra hill. The architect En­rique Egas began work on the Royal Chapel in 1506 and completed it 15 years later, creating a masterpiece of the ornate Gothic style now known in Spain as Isabelline. In 1521 Isabella's body was brought to a simple lead coffin in the Royal Chapel crypt, where it was joined by that of her husband, Ferdinand, and later her unfortunate daughter, Juana la Loca (Joanna the Mad), and son-in-law, Felipe el Hermoso (Philip the Handsome). Felipe died young, and Juana had his casket borne about the peninsula with her for years, opening the lid each night to kiss her embalrned spouse good night. A small coffin to the right contains the remains of Prince Felipe of Asturias, a grandson of the Catholic Monar­ chs and nephew of Juana la Loca who died in his infancy. The under- ground crypt containing the five lead coffins is quite simple, but it's topped by elaborate marble tombs showing Ferdinand and Isabella lying side , by side (commissioned by their grandson Charles V and sculpted by Domenico Fancelli). The altarpiece, by Felipe Vígarini (1522), comprises; 34 carved panels depicting religious and historical scenes; the bottom row shows Boabdil surrendering the keys of the city to its conquerors and the forced baptism of the defeated Moors. The sacristy holds Fer dinand's sword, Isabella's crown and scepter, and a fine collection of Flemish paintings once owned by Isabella. 13 Oficios, Centro 95S 229239 £2.10 Mar.-Sept., daily 10:30-1 and 4-7; Oct.-Feb Mon.-Sat. 10:30-1 and 3:30-6:30, Sun. 11-1 and 3:30-6:30.

Just up the hill from the Hotel Alhambra Palace, this turn-of-the-20th-century Granada carmen, or private villa, and its gardens the only area open to tourists are like a Generalife in minia ture. Paseo de los Mártires, Alhambra S 9S8/227953 5áí Free Apr.-Oct., weekdays 10-2 and 5-7; Nov.-Mar weekdays 10-2 and 4-6.

This richly decorated 16th-century palace once belonged to Bernardo Zafra, secretary to Queen Isabella. Before you enter, notice the exquisite portal, and the facade carved with scallop shells and a phoenix. Inside is the Museo Arqueológico (Archaeological Museum), where you'll find artifacts from provincial caves and from Moorish times, Phoenician burial urns from the coastal town of Almuñécar, and a copy of the Dama de Baza, a large Iberian sculpture discovered in northern Granada province ¡n 1971 (the original is in Madrid. Carrera del Darro 41 Albaicín 958225640 £3 €1.50, EU citizens free Wed.-Sat. 9-8, Sun. 9-2:30; Tues. tour groups only.

Along the Darro River- also know as the Pasco de los Tristes (Promenade at the Sad) because funeral processions once passed this way is a terrif ic place f or a coffee break. D applcd whit foutains and stone walkways , t he park has a stunning view o f t he Alhambra's northern side.

This 16th-century palace was named House of the Shots for the musket barrels that protrude from its facade. The stairs to the upper-floor displays are flanked by portraits of Spanish portraist from Fer­ dinand and Isabella to Philip IV, none of whom look very happy. The highlight is the carved wooden ceiling in the Cuadra Dorada (Hall of Gold), adorned with gilded lettering and portraits of royáis and knights. Old lithographs, engravings, and photographs show life in Granada in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Pl. Padres Suarez, Realejo 958 221072 -Free Weekdays 2:30-8.

. The fine 16th-century Morisco house (built by Moor­ ish craftsmen under Christian rule) has a delightful garden. It houses the School of Arabic Studies and is not generally open to the public, but if you knock, the caretaker might show you around. E3 Cuesta del Chapíz at Camino del Sacromonte, Albaicín.

The composer Manuel de Falla (1876-1946) lived and worked for many years in this rustic house, tucked into a charming little hillside lane with lovely views of the Alpu jarra mountains. The house is currently closed for repairs, but the ex­ terior is worth a peek. In 1986 Granada finally paid homage to Spain's classical champion by naming its new concert hall (down the street from the Carmen de los Martires) the Auditorio Manuel de Falla and from this institution, fittingly, you have a nice view of the little white house from above. Note the bust in the small garden: it stands where the composer once sat to enjoy the sweeping view. Antequeruela Alta 11, Alhambra 958229421 By appomtment only.

. Granada's most famous native son, the poet Federico García Lorca, gets his due here, in the middle of a park on the southern fringe of the city. The poet's onetime summer home, La Huerta de San Vicente, is now a museum - run by the poet's niece, Laura García Lorca - with such artifacts as the poet's beloved piano and tem porary exhibits on specific aspects of Lorca's life. Parque García Lorca, Arabial S3958/258466 www.buertadesanvicettte.com , t2 €1.80, free Wed. Oct.-Apr, Tues.-Sun. 10-1 and 4-7; May-Sept., Tues.-Sun. 10-1 and 5-8. Guided tours every a half hr until 30 mins be fore closing.

Granada's cathedral was commissioned in 1521 by Charles V, who considered the Royal Chapel "too small for so much glory" and wanted to house his illustrious late grandparents someplace more wor thy. Charles undoubtedly had great designs, as the cathedral was cre ated by some of the finest architects of its time: Enrique Egas, Diego de Siloé, Alonso Cano, and sculptor Juan de Mena. Alas, his ambitions carne to little, for the cathedral is a grand and gloomy monument, not com-pleted until 1714 and never used as the crypt of his parents or grand­ parents. You enter through a small door at the back, off the Gran Vía. Old hymnals are displayed throughout, and there's a museum, which includes a 14th-century gold and silver monstrance given to the city by Queen Isabella. e Gran Vía s/n, Centro 958222959 Mon.-Sat. 10:30-1 and 4-7, Sun. 4-7.

This building was used to store coal in the 19th century, but it's actually one of the oldest Moorish buildings in the city. Dating from the 14th century, when Moorish merchants used it as a lodging house, it's the only Arab inn of its kind in Spain. It was later used by Christians as a theater, but it has been restored and is the site of the regional tourist office. Mariana Pineda, Centro 958 225990 Free Mon.-Sat. 9-8, Sun. 10-2.

These 11th-century Arab steam baths might be a little dark and dank now, but try to imagine them filled, some 900 years ago, with Moorish beauties, backed by bright ceramic tiles, tapestries, and rugs on the dull brick walls. Light comes in through star- shape vents in the ceiling, 3 la the bathhouse in the Alhambra. El Car­ rera del Darro 31, Albaicín 958027800 €1.50, EU citizens free Tues.-Sat. 10-2.

This Carthusian monastery in northern Granada (2km[l mi] from the center) was begun in 1506 and moved to its present site in 1516, though construction continued for the next 300 years. The exterior is sober and monolithic, but when you enter and see twisted, multicolor marble columns; a profusion of gold, silver, tortoiseshell, and ivory; intricate stucco; and an extravagant Churrigueresque sacristy, you'll see why Cartuja has been called the Christian answer to the Alhambra. El Camino de Alfacar, Cartuja 958 61932 €2.50 Mon.-Sat. 10-1 and 4-7, Sun. 10-noon.

At the end of the Paseo Padre Manjón, this palace was a noble house in the 17th century. Today it keeps Granada's municipal archives and is used for municipal functions and art exhibits. You're free to wander around the large garden.

This building conceals the old Moorish university, built in 1349 by Yusuf I. The baroque facade is dark and intriguing; in side, across from the entrance, an octagonal room is crowned by a Moorish dome. There are occasional free art and cultural exhibitions. Oficios, Centro S 958/223447.

Across from Granada's convention center, this museum has interactive exhibits, scientific experiments, and a planetarium. The 165-ft observation tower has views to the south and west. Avda. del Mediterráneo, Zaidín 958131900 www parqnedencias.com €.3.60, planetarium €1.60 Tues.-Sat. 10-7, Sun. 10-3.

The third of Granada's three hills, the Sacromonte rises be- hind the Albaicín, dotted with prickly pear cacti and riddled with cav erns. These caves may have sheltered early Christians; 15th-century treasure hunters found bones inside and assumed they belonged to San Cecilio, the city's patron saint. Thus the hill was sanctified - sacro monte (holy mountain) - and an abbey built on its summit, the Abadía de Sacromonte (E! Camino del Sacromonte, Sacromonte 958221445). The abbey ís open Tuesday-Saturday 11-1 and 4-6, Sunday noon-1 and 4-6, with guided tours every half hour. Admission is €1.80. The Sacromonte has long been notorious as a domain of Granada's Roma (Gypsies) and a den of pickpockets, but its reputation is largely unde- served. The quarter is more like a quiet Andalusian pueblo (village) than a rough neighborhood. Many of the quarter's colorful cuevas (caves) have been restored as middle-class homes, and some of the old spirit lives on in a handful of zambras, flamenco performances in caves gar ishly decorated with brass plates and cooking utensils. These differ from formal flamenco shows in that the performers mingle with you, usually dragging one or two onlookers onto the floor for an improvised dance lesson. Ask your hotel to book you a spot on a cueva tour, which usually includes a walk through the neighboring Albaicín and a drink at a tapas bar in addition to the zambra.

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